THE PURPLE ISLE APRIL 2003 CHARLES GREENFIELD, Coral Gables Gazette - Travel Section. Islamorada in Spanish literally means Purple Island, a name that contains some truth when the western sky glows with the fading tropical colors of a Florida Keys sunset. Unlike Key Largo, which increasingly resembles a South Dade suburb, and Marathon, with its working class ethos, Islamorada maintains a more sophisticated faade. Touted as the Sport Fishing Capital of the World it welcomes anglers worldwide for bonefish and tarpon on the flats and sailfish or dolphin (mahi-mahi) off the ocean reefs. It is no surprise that strict building codes have created a more gentrified community of snowbirds and affluent tourists where most fast food restaurants are prohibited and garish highway frontage is kept to a minimum. Increasingly, the community encourages an upscale hostelry. The latest member of this select club, the 16 all suite Casa Morada, is directly located at 136 Madeira Road (mile marker 82.2) next to the late baseball great Ted Williams' home on Florida Bay off busy U.S.1 and a short walk north from the popular and casual Lorelei restaurant and bar. Guests are immediately greeted by three solid pink, rose red and burnt orange sentinels that bespeak a chic tone to an otherwise tony but bourgeois township, Landscaping by noted architect/artist Raymond Jungles exhibits similar lan with a grotto sculpted out of limestone, a bocce ball court and 650 tons of powder sand for the delightfully sculpted island beach, freshwater pool and old fashion whitewashed wood gazebo. A small post-modern reception offers guests bottled Fiji water and sodas, advice on local restaurants, babysitting, complimentary bikes, spa services, laundry, DVD rentals ($5 per movie) and facilities for boats and pets. Casa Morada is owned and run by three former Manhattanites and famed hotelier Ian Schrager (New York's Studio 54, South Beach's Delano) ex-employees: Terry Ford, President, Heide Praver, V.P. of operations, and Lauren Abrams, V.P. of marketing. Says Praver, All three of us looked at dozens of properties up and down the Florida Keys. It seemed Islamorada had a niche available for the upscale service oriented product we envisioned. Our clients can feel free to be left alone with a book on the beach, order yummy key lime pie from nearby Manny Isa's Kitchen, or hop on a bonefish skiff with a guide from our dock. The trio has retained much of the former owner/designer Robert Partiente's iron beds inspired by the Greek Islands, ottomans and black and white photographs. My garden suite (#7) - half the units face the bay - was equipped with a Jacuzzi surrounded by a lovely cork floor, a deck with modern Italian lounge chairs, and 1950s style gold, gray and black speckled terrazzo floors. A gorgeous orchid decorated the living room, a nice touch that is incorporated in all the rooms. A King size bed with lush comforters and 100% cotton duvets is bordered by excellent high intensity reading lamps. Besides the well stocked mini fridges, guests can take complimentary breakfast overlooking the tiny wooden footbridge to the beach island and enjoy homemade croissants, muffins, bagels, cereal, freshly squeezed orange juice, hot tea and freshly brewed Jamaican Blue Mountain Coffee. For the persevering, a huge manatee often appears next to the bridge for his daily spraying from a garden hose. A short bike ride or walk from Casa Morada on the same side of U.S.1 stands Islamorada's most popular fishing emporium, World Wide Sportsman, with the Zane Grey Lounge on the second floor and the adjoining Islamorada Fish Company. In its handsome, airy display area are arrayed a bazaar of items, from fishing rods and reels, lures and baits, casual apparel, footwear, and Guy Harvey fish drawings, to wonderful live fish aquariums (snook and tarpon), art gallery and an outstanding fly shop. More importantly, for fishing fans, a replica of Ernest Hemingway mahogany boat Pilar anchors the building in all its nostalgic glory. Upstairs the Zane Grey Lounge pays homage to the great author of westerns (Riders of the Purple Sage) and pioneer sports fisherman who caught permit, sail and bonefish off Long Key from 1912 - 26. Memorabilia includes a painting above above the fireplace mantle of Grey and a world record 1,040- pound striped marline caught off Tahiti. For a great snack next door the Islamorada Fish Company serves fish spread (amber jack), scrumptious fired, boiled or broiled seafood, stone crab claws, and Florida Lobster in full vie of Florida Bay and the fully-equipped marina and guide boats. Islamorada, part of Upper Matecumbe Key, Windley Key to the north and Lower Matecumbe and Long Key to the south, communally share a fascinating history. Just south of Islamorada between the Matecumbe Keys tiny Indian Key State Historic Site on the ocean side of U.S.1 was the original county seat for Date County in 1836; four years later botanist Dr. Henry Perrine was killed by Seminoles and the stone foundation and streets of the 50 - inhabitant settlement are the ghostly reminders. The fascinating islet provides an observation tower, dock, shelter and trails (no restrooms or picnic tables), accessible by boat from Robbie's Marina and Boat Rentals, (M.M. 77.5) on Lower Matecumbe where visitors for a small fee can feed tarpon and large jacks from the dock. A more vigorous but exciting alternative would be to take a kayak tour ($49.00 for three hours) or go solo ($15.00 per hour) from Florida Keys Kayak Sail next door to Robbie's. Bayside just off Robbie's Marina lies Lignumvitae Key State Botanical Site, a mirror of early Keys life and rare flora. Via Kayak or tour boat from Robbie's or marinas in Islamorada the 280-acre island magically preserves its native vegetation like the hardwood lignumvitae (once used for bearings in ships), mastic, strangler fig poisonwood, pigeon plum and gumbo-limbo. Ancient Indian shell heaps or middens are on the site as well as the Matheson House (1919) with a windmill and cistern and the remains of a purported Spanish wall. The Island also boasts the highest elevation in the Keys; a mighty 18 feet! One hour guided walks are given at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., Thursday through Monday. A tour boat departs a half-hour before tour times on the mainland; for reservations, call 305-664-9814. If you rent your own boat pay strict attention to channel markings (Red Right Return), shallow flats (Brown brown, run aground), restricted access signs (bird roosting), and fragile sea grass beds (propeller scarring). Just north of Islamorada, Windley Key gives a fascinating glimpse into prehistory through its underground Key Largo lime-stone Formed over 125,000 years ago, the limestone has been for over a century cut out of quarry that was active until the 1960s. Open to the public the Windley Key Fossil Reef State Geological Site exposes the limestone cuts with their embedded fossilized coral ancestors. Self-guided walks in the quarries and hammock coat $1.50 per person; guided tours at 10 am and 2 pm, $2.50 per person. The polished limestone or keystone decorates public buildings nationwide, including the St. Louis Post Office and the handsome Art Moderne styled Hurricane Monument (MM 81.5) that commemorates the 400 victims of Isamorada's 1935 Hurricane. What draws visitors to Islamorada unquestionably is the fishing. Cowboy author Zane Grey in the winter of 1922 described a 17-pound permit caught from a canoe off Long Key as exceedingly beautiful, an exquisite shade of silver opal not possible to describe. The black markings were the most wonderful I ever saw on a fish, and resembled the loveliest of Japanese decorative art. While overfishing has become a major concern to conservationists and boat captains alike, both flats and ocean fishing remain excellent. I'll go out late in the afternoon in my flats skiff for bonefish or tarpon and realize there is no place in the world as beautiful, says Ri...

LAID-BACK LUXURY JULY 2003 By Linda Marx, Special to the Daily News. Island Getaway A few weeks later I traveled south to Islamorada, an island town between Miami and Key West in the Florida Keys. I was pleasantly surprised to find Casa Morada, a renovated all-suites hotel that reopened last August While the Clinton Hotel is designed like a sophisticated island in the city, Casa Morada is a laid-back resort on an island. Using Miami/Manhattan style and minimalist decor, three female entrepreneurs have changed the face of hospitality in Islamorada, the small island village known more for its mom-and-pop motels than boutique dcor. Owners Heidi Praver, general manger and vice president of operations; Terry Ford, president; and Lauren Abrams, vice president of marketing - alumni of Ian Schrager Hotels plunked down $3 million to buy the aging motel. They spent more than $1 million to refurbish Casa Morada into 16 elegant suites, some with whirlpools on the terrace, others with day beds on the porch overlooking Florida Bay. Each suite offers a private garden or terrace. In this island town, dubbed the Sport Fishing Capital of the World, the trio envisioned a laid-back, boutique hotel that would combine luxury with serenity and style. They aim to attract travelers who prefer a shorter jaunt than the extra 90 miles it takes to drive to Key West. The barefoot beauty of the 1.7-acre bayfront property draws people by car or boat - dockage is available to all guests. Pets are welcome, and the hotel offers them perks, from dog beds to personal dog tags. The first thing I noticed after checking into the West Indies-style outdoor reception area overlooking the bay was the vast, natural landscaping. Originally built in the 1950's, the owners hired Key West landscaper Raymond Jungles to create an island paradise of native vegetation, including Florida silver, South American oil and Fiji Island palms, plus clusters of pigeon plum, beach creeper, Fakahatchee grass and Easter Parade bougainvillea. A grotto of carved limestone is an oasis in this green. After a walk across a bridge to the docks, by the freshwater swimming pool and through a cabana and water-splashed gazebo where drinks are served at sunset, I wandered back through pristine landscape to my second-floor suite, aptly called The Jungle. The three-room digs with terrazzo floors holds an eclectic mix-and-match of Mexican antiques with a modern bathroom featuring beauty products and a hair dryer. The entry/living room area has an island-theme daybed with black-and-white photos of native vegetation. The all-white bedroom is dominated by a sweeping view of the property and bay through the floor-to-ceiling window/door leading to the terrace. The king-size bed with a thick white comforter and cotton duvet is across from a large rope-anchored mirror. Other amenities include a well-stocked mini-fridge, cable TV and DVD/CD player and safe. Movies are available at the reception desk; books are stacked in a wood-framed case next to the bed. I spent much of my time on the indoor/outdoor terrace. A large whirlpool allowed me to soak and gaze at the bay. There was an aroma-therapy candle and small high-tech ceiling lights to enhance the mood. Complimentary breakfast Complimentary breakfast, served on the Seaview Terrace, is a pleasant experience. Under a canopy, caf tables and a longer wood table are arranged so guests can help themselves to cereals, croissants, muffins, orange juice, tea and coffee. All meals can be ordered privately through the reception desk to be brought to your room or favorite outdoor table. A new arrangement with an Islamorada caterer offers guests fancy dinner choices. The staff can set up elegant dining on suite terraces, outdoors under the stars or in a romantic gazebo. Another dining option is the Florida-Asian cuisine at Kaiyo, 81701 Old Highway. Just a two-minute car ride away, this romantic sushi bar and full-service restaurant makes to order all kinds of sushi, sashimi and other seafood (try the striped bass), chicken breast or salads. Homemade ice creams are best enjoyed before French-pressed coffee. Recreation on land and sea You may want to do nothing at Casa Morada but rest and read. But there are diversions, such as bocce ball, bicycling, snorkeling, diving, fishing and a sunset sail available from the dock. Depending on your mood, time frame and interests, Casa Morada can fill most of you getaway needs.

 Guest rooms have air conditioning
 Baby chairs and cots are provided
 Breakfast may be served in the room
 Central situation
 Conference and meeting room
 Credit cards accepted
 Disabled guests are welcome
 Facsimile services
 Hairdryer
 Heating
 Access to internet
 Ironing facilities
 Smoke-free guest rooms
 Pets are accepted
 Parking lot
 Private park, garden, courtyard
 Quiet surroundings
 Fridge
 Restaurant
 Safe deposit box
 Private/Ensuite bathroom
 Solarium
 Swimming pool
 Tea and coffee making facilities
 Phone at reception
 Phones in rooms
 TV sets in rooms
 Patio, summer terrace
 Cheques accepted